Marine collagen, bovine, vegetal, type I, type II, type III, native, hydrolyzed... Collagen supplement labels are full of technical terms without always explaining them. The result: we often buy without really knowing what we're taking, or if it's suitable for our goal. Here's a comprehensive guide to clarify things.
What is collagen and why do we lack it as we age?
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body. It accounts for about 30% of total protein mass and forms the structural framework of skin, bones, tendons, cartilage, and blood vessels. In the skin, it forms a network of fibers in the dermis that gives it density, firmness, and resistance to mechanical stress.
The problem is simple: from the age of 25, the body's natural collagen production decreases by about 1% per year. By age 50, we produce almost 30% less than at age 20. The skin thins, loses volume, and wrinkles appear. At the same time, the enzymes that degrade collagen, metalloproteinases, continue their work. The deficit gradually widens.
Oral supplementation with hydrolyzed collagen can compensate for this decline, provided the right type in the right form is chosen.
Collagen is not just another beauty ingredient. It is the structural protein of your skin, and it decreases every year.
The main types of collagen and their roles
There are over 28 types of collagen identified in the human body. Each plays a specific role in a particular tissue. For beauty purposes, two types are the focus of most clinical research.
Type I collagen is the most abundant in the body. It accounts for 80 to 90% of the skin's total collagen and makes up the majority of the dermis fibers. It gives the skin its density, resistance, and ability to maintain itself. Therefore, Type I is the most relevant to supplement for skin beauty.
Type III collagen is present in smaller quantities in the skin, particularly in young skin and regenerating tissues. It is often associated with Type I in bovine formulas. Its role in tissue suppleness and elasticity is well documented.
Type II collagen, on the other hand, is specific to joint cartilage. It is not very relevant for skin beauty and is mainly found in joint supplements. If you are looking for a supplement for the skin, the presence of type II alone indicates that the product is not designed for your use.
- Type I Main component of the dermis. 80 to 90% of skin collagen. Resistance, density, firmness. The reference active ingredient for a skin beauty supplement.
- Type II Specific to joint cartilage. Not very relevant for the skin. To be preferred in joint supplements, not in beauty formulas.
- Type III Present in young skin and regenerating tissues. Associated with type I in bovine formulas. Contributes to tissue flexibility.
Marine or bovine collagen: which origin to choose?
The source of collagen determines both its type and its bioavailability. Two origins dominate the supplement market: marine collagen and bovine collagen.
Marine collagen is extracted from fish skin, scales, or bones. It is almost exclusively type I, which makes it the most suitable source for skin beauty. Its main asset is its molecular weight: hydrolyzed marine collagen peptides are smaller than their bovine counterparts, which allows them to cross the intestinal barrier more easily and reach the dermis in greater quantities. Its bioavailability is estimated to be 1.5 times higher than that of bovine collagen according to several comparative studies.
Bovine collagen, extracted from the skin or bones of cattle, contains both type I and type III. It is widely used and well-documented, but its slightly higher molecular weight limits its absorption compared to marine collagen.
So-called "vegetal" collagen deserves clarification: there is no such thing as vegetal collagen. Products claiming to be vegetal collagen actually contain precursors to collagen synthesis, such as vitamin C or certain amino acids. This is not without interest, but it is not collagen in the strict sense.
Native or hydrolyzed: the distinction that changes everything
This is probably the most important distinction to understand before buying a collagen supplement. Native collagen is collagen in its original, unfragmented form. It is a macromolecule whose molecular weight is far too high to cross the intestinal wall. Taken orally, it is simply degraded into generic amino acids by digestive enzymes, without ever reaching the dermis in an active form.
Hydrolyzed collagen, on the other hand, is fragmented into low molecular weight peptides by a controlled enzymatic hydrolysis process. These peptides are small enough to be efficiently absorbed in the intestine and transported via the bloodstream to the fibroblasts in the dermis. This is where they exert their main effect: they signal to the fibroblasts that collagen is degrading, which stimulates the production of endogenous collagen in response.
A collagen supplement that does not indicate "hydrolyzed" or "peptides" on its label does not tell you the essential part of what determines its effectiveness.
Molecular weight: the technical detail that makes the difference
Among hydrolyzed collagens, the molecular weight of the peptides varies depending on the hydrolysis process used. The smaller the peptides, the better they are absorbed. Low molecular weight collagen peptides, generally less than 3,000 daltons, show the best bioavailability and the most documented effects on the skin.
Naticol®, a marine hydrolyzed type I collagen used in DE AUREA's Protocol N°79, is specifically selected for the size of its peptides and the depth of its clinical documentation. Studies concerning it show significant improvement in skin hydration, elasticity, and reduction of fine lines after 8 weeks of regular intake.
Choosing a collagen means choosing a form, an origin, a molecular weight. Not just an ingredient on a label.
Collagen alone or combined formula: what does science say?
Hydrolyzed marine type I collagen is a powerful active ingredient taken in isolation. But its effects can be amplified by active ingredients that act on complementary mechanisms. Vitamin C, an essential cofactor for endogenous collagen synthesis, is the most classic and best-documented combination. Antioxidants like vitamin E and Coenzyme Q10 protect existing collagen against oxidative degradation. Ceramides strengthen the skin barrier, reducing water loss that accentuates the visibility of wrinkles.
A well-designed combined formula does not just stack active ingredients: it combines ingredients whose mechanisms of action complement and reinforce each other. It is this logic of synergy, developed by Doctors of Pharmacy, that distinguishes a well-thought-out protocol from a simple marketing product.
Frequently asked questions about collagen types
There are over 28 types of collagen in the human body. The most important for the skin are type I, the main component of the dermis that gives it resistance and density, and type III, present in connective tissues and young skin. Type II is specific to cartilage. For a skin beauty supplement, hydrolyzed marine type I collagen is the most documented.
Marine collagen, extracted from fish skin, is primarily type I and has a lower molecular weight than bovine collagen, which improves its intestinal absorption. Bovine collagen contains both type I and type III. For targeted skin beauty, hydrolyzed marine type I collagen is generally preferred for its superior bioavailability.
Hydrolyzed marine type I collagen is the most suitable for skin beauty. It accounts for 80 to 90% of skin collagen, stimulates dermal fibroblasts, and improves skin hydration, elasticity, and density. Clinical studies show significant results after 8 weeks of regular supplementation.
Yes, for oral intake. Native collagen is a macromolecule too large to cross the intestinal barrier. Hydrolyzed collagen is fragmented into low molecular weight peptides that are efficiently absorbed and reach the dermis via the bloodstream, where they stimulate the production of endogenous collagen.
Clinical studies show measurable effects on skin hydration and elasticity after 8 weeks of regular intake. Full results on skin density and reduction of fine lines are observed after 2 to 3 months. Daily regularity is essential.
